Manley Nu Mu Stereo Limiter/Compressor Review

Hello! This is Jooyoung Kim, an audio engineer and music producer.

Now that the semester is over, I have a few weeks to rest and prepare materials for my next classes. Even so, I still have a lot of work to do on my new research, my DIY hardware projects, and my English studies. It will be very busy holidays.


By the way, recently, I decided that I need to sell my compressors, the Heritage Audio Successor and the Stam Audio SA-4000 MK2, and replace them with a mastering-grade compressor to mix and master music better.

Fortunately, last week I sold both of them, and I have been happily considering which mastering-grade compressor I should buy. There were several options to choose from, but I finally decided to buy the Manley Nu Mu Stereo Limiter/Compressor.

This decision came from my experience with the SPL IRON, the SPL Venos, and the Chandler Limited RS660 compressors, which are vari-mu-style compressors. They sound great across many genres, but they aren’t within my budget. (If I bought them, I’d have to live on cup noodles for about three months! :))

I also had an experience with the original Neve 33609/C compressor/limiter and the Chandler Limited EMI TG12413 Zener Limiter. These are diode-bridge compressors that have really great saturation; however, they are also unaffordable.

I found two reasonably priced compressors: the Rupert Neve Designs 5254 Shelford Diode Bridge Compressor and the Manley Nu Mu Stereo Limiter/Compressor. I ultimately chose the Manley because it was more affordable. Also, having previously owned a diode-bridge compressor—the Heritage Audio Successor—I was ready to explore a different style.

I was also attracted to the WesAudio ngBusComp, which features a handy digital recall system. However, it is a VCA-style compressor, which is the same type as the Stam Audio SA-4000 MK2 that I used to own.

Therefore, I decided to buy the Manley Nu Mu Stereo Limiter/Compressor!


Build Features

The Manley Nu Mu features eight knobs, six buttons, and two switches, excluding the power switch. The knobs (Threshold, Output, Recovery (Release), and Attack) and switches (Input Level) on the left side are identical to those on the right, allowing for independent adjustment of the left and right signals.

The Link button couples the left and right signal control knobs, with the notable exception of the Output controls. Consequently, these must be matched manually via measurement. Furthermore, apart from the Recovery knob, all controls feature continuous rotation, which makes precise recall of previous settings difficult.

The HIP (High Impact Preservation) control compresses quieter sounds while leaving loud peaks untouched. It processes these signals internally to achieve results similar to parallel compression. I found that the audio sounds more natural when engaged, so I may leave this button on permanently.

The HP SC (Sidechain High Pass Filter) button activates an internal filter with a 100Hz corner frequency and a 6dB/octave slope. This prevents the compressor from reacting to low-frequency energy below 100Hz, ensuring more stable gain reduction.


Measurments

This equipment exhibits characteristic behaviors. Variations in input gain, threshold, attack time, and release time significantly affect the low-frequency response. Additionally, there is a slight amplitude discrepancy between the left and right circuits in the low end. This difference is easily observed in many compressors that do not naturally exhibit a low cut in their frequency response. For instance, when I demoed the SPL Venos, I found a significant discrepancy in the low-frequency output. Furthermore, an engineer peer of mine mentioned struggling with the same low-end inconsistency after purchasing an SPL Iron.

So, this level of discrepancy is acceptable.

As shown in the image above, harmonic distortion levels are relatively low; however, they remain sufficient to noticeably alter the timbre of the sound.

Compressor mode
Limiter mode

Regarding the compression curves, the unit provides a smooth transition in both modes; however, the Limiter mode utilizes a hard knee, whereas the Compressor mode employs a soft knee.

Compressor mode
Limiter mode

The images above illustrate the behavior of the unit in HIP mode

GR 2-3 dB
GR 1-2 dB

Furthermore, some peculiar behaviors occur during operation. Engineers typically target 0–2 dB of gain reduction on a mastering or mix bus compressor to achieve effective ‘glue.’ However, in this range, audible ‘pumping’ occurs. You can observe this specific behavior in the second photo above.

I encountered numerous discussions regarding this issue while researching the compressor prior to purchase. Although I anticipated the behavior, the audible effect was more critical than I had expected upon testing it myself.

Ultimately, I realized that the 0–2 dB gain reduction range is not ideal for this unit. Interestingly, pushing the gain reduction to 2–3 dB yields much better results, where the behavior stabilizes significantly in both compressor and limiter modes. This performance difference is illustrated in the first photo above.

It has a great sonic taste! It adds rich saturation and harmonic distortion across all frequency ranges, which fills out the empty spaces within the stereo field—a quality that is clearly audible.

However, because the character is so flavorful, I believe that applying a stereo imaging processor will help ‘release’ the sound that has become dense from the harmonic distortion, resulting in a more open and balanced result for mixing or mastering. To this end, I am looking forward to acquiring either an SPL Vitalizer MK3 or a Big Studio.

The unit features a 100 Hz high-pass filter with a 6dB per octave slope for internal signal detection, while also providing sidechain send/return inserts for external processing.

When the sidechain send/return inserts are connected, the internal detection circuit is bypassed, and the unit derives its detection exclusively from the external sidechain signal.

Therefore, a simple EQ connection is recommended for this function. To facilitate this, I am currently seeking a cheap used 1U rackmount EQ (like the Behringer FBQ1502HD) to utilize specifically with this sidechain insert.


Final Thought

It’s really great gear! I think it can be used in three ways:

  1. As a saturator: Running signals through the Manley Nu Mu without any gain reduction.
  2. For characteristic grooves: Using the sidechain function to create unique grooves with rhythmic signals.
  3. As a bus compressor: Using it for mixing or mastering.

I’ll be writing a follow-up post once I acquire an EQ or stereo imaging hardware for my setup. Thanks for reading! See you in the next post.

Heritage Audio HA73EQX2 Microphone Preamplifier Review

Hello! This is Jooyoung Kim, a mixing engineer and music producer.

I already had the HA73EQ and was very impressed with it. Thus, I decided to expand to a dual-channel setup. As a result, I sold it and bought the HA73EQX2 last September, and I think now is a good time to write a review.


Technical Observations

First, at the same value of each parameter, both channels have subtly different frequency responses. The responses seemed quite similar, but they were adjusted to match each other.

Harmonic distortions are not excessive, but they are enough to emphasize sounds.

There is no compression in any amplitudes, and there are only very subtle changes at the transients in the audio sources.

I cannot fully explain how the character sounds based on the measurements. So, If I had to describe it, the HA73EQX2 ‘pushes’ the source, bringing the soundstage noticeably more forward.

I have experience with the original Neve 1073, and its “pushing” feel is similar to that of the HA73EQX2. Having worked with original Neve 1073s, I found this ‘forward’ character to be similar.

However, when I adjust it on the mix bus, it has too many harmonics… So I think I’ll use it to enhance each source that has weak harmonics and textures.


Final Thought

It’s a really great choice at a reasonable cost.

Honestly, the Neve 1073DPX is too expensive and doesn’t sound like the original. From this perspective, the Heritage Audio’s HA73EQX2 can be a great alternative. I might sound like a promoter, but after five years with Heritage Audio gear, I can genuinely recommend this preamp to anyone.

Thanks for reading, and I’ll see you in the next post!

Heritage Audio Successor Hardware & Plugin Review

Hello, there! I’m Jooyoung Kim, a mixing engineer and music producer.

About half a year ago, I bought a Heritage Audio Successor that had some intermittent noise issues. I kept telling myself I’d write a review after getting it fixed… and, well, here I am finally getting around to it now, haha.

I didn’t originally have any burning desire to get this unit, like, “I have to own this thing!” It was just a good deal, even factoring in the repair costs, so my hand moved faster than my brain, lol.

I was initially eyeing the Behringer 369, but since this is also a diode bridge compressor, I figured why not. Plus, it’s a mastering compressor pushed by Heritage Audio, so I thought the channel balance would be decent enough, and it wouldn’t be a total gamble. So, I went for it.

As expected, there was noise coming from the left channel, so I just dove in and opened it up without much thought. Usually, noise or low output points to a capacitor issue—something simple, right? Or so I thought…!

No matter how much I looked, it didn’t seem like a soldering issue or a blown capacitor. So, I detached the circuit board and swapped the left and right transformers, but the left channel was still the problem.

Testing every tiny component by buying replacements was, frankly, not humanly reasonable. So, I handed it over to the folks at MS Tech for repairs, explaining the tests I’d done and admitting I couldn’t pinpoint the issue.

A few months later, I went to pick it up. When I asked the technician, he said he wasn’t entirely sure, but it seemed like the variable resistor in the left channel was the culprit. On the outside, the components looked fine, but something inside was faulty, haha.

Yeah, I probably underestimated the repair when I bought it. But, thankfully, it’s all fixed now, so no harm done.

And here’s something cool:

Even though I bought it secondhand, I reached out to Heritage Audio’s Support Center to ask if they could provide the plugin, and they happily gave it to me! The plugin is actually pretty solid, and I find myself using it quite a bit.

Hardware Measurements

The channel balance is pretty tight, though, being analog, it’s not completely perfect. You might wonder if the repair changed anything, but even before the noise issue, the balance was about the same.

The extreme high frequencies are slightly boosted, and, like many hardware units, it looks like there’s a high cut around 20kHz. The low frequencies are boosted as well.

The THD looks clean, but it definitely has some character.

The compression curve shows a gentle knee.

Even when limiting, it’s not a completely hard knee.

This unit has a max input of +22 dBu. Since pro audio typically works at +24 dBu, it’s a bit shy of that, but my interface operates at +20 dBu, so it’s plenty for my mixes or mix bus.

The max output is +26 dBu at 600 ohms, so as long as you manage the input carefully, it should work well for mastering too.

Plugin Measurements

The plugin has a unique feature called “Nuke.” It pushes the input by 20 dB for some intense saturation.

The top figure shows the default Frequency Response, and the bottom figure shows it with the Nuke function enabled.

Similarly, the top figure is the default Harmonic Distortion, and the bottom figure is with Nuke activated.

The compression curve feels less like a natural, smooth knee and more like it has a slight two-step bend somewhere.

Personal Impressions

Describing sound in words is probably the hardest thing. Everyone hears and expresses things differently, so… ugh, it’s tough.

Still, here’s what I think:

Hardware
  1. Compared to the Stam 4000 mk2, the high frequencies feel more alive, which gives it a certain quality that feels worth its price.
  2. The center feels a bit prominent (maybe because of the transformers?).
  3. The knobs feel great to turn—probably because they used high-quality variable resistors—and the Threshold and Gain have a subtle stepped feel.
  4. For its full price, it feels just about right.
Plugin
  1. The Frequency Response shows better high-end response than the hardware, but that sparkly, satisfying vibe just isn’t there in the plugin.
  2. The center feels quite prominent. In other words, you might need to tweak it with a stereo imager or something.
  3. It’s got a lot of character. So, when using it on a bus, you really need to pay attention to how it affects the balance.

Looking back, it sounds like I was pretty harsh on the plugin, but it’s actually good! Diode bridge compressor plugins aren’t exactly common (think UAD Neve 33609C or Arturia Diode 609), so it’s a solid new option to consider.

The hardware? Yeah, it’s great! I wish the highs sparkled just a bit more, but it’s plenty good as is.

Next up, I’m eyeing the Warm Audio WA76-D2 for a FET compressor. The audio samples sound amazing, but, as always, the biggest hurdle is money… sigh. If a broken one pops up on the secondhand market, I’m jumping on it.

I sometimes wonder if my reviews lean too technical or analytical, but hey, there’s gotta be at least one person out there reviewing stuff like this, right? Haha.

That’s it for today! See you in next post 🙂

After Modifying My Stam Audio SA-2A

Hello! I’m Jooyoung Kim, mixing engineer & music producer.

Today, I’ll talk about what I did after the article, Record Before Modifying the Stam Audio SA-2A, and how sound changed.


First, let’s review the problems I encountered.

  1. Output gain is similar to input gain, when the GAIN knob is too low.
  2. Compression is started when PEAK REDUCTION knob is too high.
  3. It sounds so dull, like high frequency response is cut off

Otherwise, The Compress and Limit switch was positioned incorrectly. It was simply solved by wrench.


1) Potentiometer Changed..1

If you take off the cover of SA-2A’s knob, you could see a100k potentiometer at each parts. So, I thought that if I change a100k to a50k for gain knob, amount of change is more lower. Also, change a100k to a250k for peak reduction knob, compression would be change more earlier.

So I changed them first.

The green line is SA-2A hardware, the pink line is Waves’ CLA-2A.

It doesn’t seem bad at all! Otherwise, output gain is similar to input gain, when the GAIN knob is too low yet, I ordered A25K and A10K potentiometer too.


2) Vacuum Tubes Changed

I changed my 12AX7 tubes from jj electronics to mullard.

Frequency response and compression curve was not that different compared to jj electronics’. But it sounds much better than before. Harmonic distortion seems to have changed many aspects of the sound.


3) Changed Potentiometer Once Again..2

Upper image is a25k, The lower image shows the a10k potentiometer. You could see frequency response improved when the lower value of potentiometer is used! The problem isn’t solved but it sounds really good.

Red curve is UAD LA-2A Silver face, pink curve is WAVES CLA-2A, green curve is SA-2A.

Compared to UAD, it’s nice that it doesn’t add such an overwhelming saturation. And compared to Waves, I like that it doesn’t have that overly compressed feel.

I think it’s worth trying out more simple tools like this in the future. Next time, maybe an EQ or a Comp DIY kit…!

See you in next post! 🙂